How to angle the T110E5 – part one

This time  we would like to make a complement for our T110E5 report. I had been asked several times, if players should angle their T110? At first, I could not give a straight answer, because I did not know. The american Tier10 heavy tank has a complex hull shape, but the main problem is the thin side armor, which can be vulnerable to high-angle shots from the front. So we finally went after that…

It’s possible, but only with serious limits and buts

Our goal was to find an immunity angle, where the side hull armor is still safe at high angled frontal shots, and I think we found one. It’s a modest value and a clear reminder, all T110 drivers should be aware of. Our main concern has to be the sides…They are 76mm thick and flat, just like by the  old T29/34 series. (That one turned out to be not entirely true, correction in the comments)

The safe angle for T110E5 side hull is +/-12,5 degree. The upper front armor receives an effective armor boost, the lower front armor remains unchanged, mostly

All right, we have a “safe zone” for our little steel wall collector.  But do we gain any extra protection for our front armor? I can say a clear YES for that!

After our previous tests, we had several armor zones on the upper front plate (UFP), 3 of them have changed its five/seven shot immunity value, upwards. The increased protection level is on the following picture.

Safe angling adds 20-25mm extra effective armor for the T110E5 upper hull armor

The bad news is, the safe-angling for T110E5 does not help the lower front plate, or just at an insignificant level. In the future, we will continue our research for 30 and 45 degree angling, but be aware, that such hull positioning will always expose your thin sides.

Thoryne, Sinenfutorepatolvaj


4 responses to “How to angle the T110E5 – part one

  1. There is one detail that you overlooked. T110’s side armor isn’t flat! Design of new Us tanks differs from T29/T34 series. Both M103 and T110 have unique, angled side armor beneath the tracks.

    The effect of this angle is rather small, but I was able do deflect some shots which were perpendicular to side armor thanks to it.

    • As far as I know it’s flat, the M103 has eggshape one-piece cast hull with rounded sides, but I might be wrong.

      Any road, there must be an explanation for, that why the armor behind the front sprocket gets penetrated at 15 degree, but the rest of the hull stands. Maybe the casting shape varies.

      • I would post screenshots, but on static scrteenshot it’s very difficult to see the angling. When twisting the camera in garage you can see rounded sides.

        Only flat part is rear drive sprocket. Frontal idler is mounted to the angled part.

        The casting in front/side area (wher idler is mounted) varies due to egg-shapeed armor.

        The really interesting thing is the effect of this angling. As we know T110 sometimes gets easily penetrated from the side, sometimes it’s surprisingly tough.

        It’s also tough when angled and shot at side from the front. Combined effect of angled side armor and tracks makes it very tough in such situations.

        Maybe you can investigate it further…

      • We will.

        Actually, besides the front/rear sprocket area was pretty though at even 20 degree, but at the first run we treated the side hull armor as a whole.

        It’s pretty annoying, when you corner fight, and the first shot of the opponent penetrates you from the front sprocket and/or detracks.

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